Tabitha’s Tales

At the end of his long solo voyage the weary transatlantic sailor sat in the cockpit, a glass of red wine to hand. He cast a thankful eye over his little ship for it was she who was the true hero of the voyage.

At last he was at peace.

THE END

.. . .”Certainly every man that goes to sea in a little boat of this kind learns terror and salvation, happy living, air, danger, exultation, glory and repose at the end: and they are not words to him, but, on the contrary, realities which will afterwards throughout his life give the mere words a full meaning”. . .Hillaire Belloc

Thurs 28/06/07 1550GMT. 50 16N 4 20W. COG062T SOG 6.2kts. 24hrs 133nm. To Plymouth 6nm. Since Florida 4610nm.

England looked at her best as we closed Lands End and then spent the day sailing along the coast towards Plymouth. Blue sky, white fluffy cumulus clouds and the hills of Dartmoor on the horizon. So much to see after the wide ocean. Lobster pots, ships, fishermen. I have been taking so many photographs of things that just wouldn’t normally stand out for me.

It feels good to be so close.

Bishops Rock light was sighted at 2140 last night and then the lights on the Scilly Isles slowly came into view. The traffic was busier than we have had for a long time but by no means confusing or problematic and there was plenty of opportunity to nap. By dawn this morning Lands End was clearly visible and we now, at 0730GMT, we have Lizard Point 3nm to the north.

It is less than 50nm to Plymouth and we are pressing to get in before this evening’s forecast Force 7 possibly Gale 8. What dreadful weather England is having. None the less, I think I will enjoy this day. A quiet sense of satisfaction at having crossed an ocean in a small boat. By the time we arrive we will have logged in excess of 4600nm since Florida which is several hundred miles more than it might have been but if we arrive safely and with no serious damage then I will be completely satisfied.

Listening to Radio 4 I note that we can anticipate persistent rain for our arrival but I am sure that nothing will dampen my spirits.

Tue 26/06/07 1550GMT. 49 18N 11 05W. COG 085. SOG 5kts. 24hrs 145nm. To Plymouth 275nm. Since Florida 4329nm.

Sure enough, now sooner where we on the continental shelf than the first fishing trawler appeared. I guess this will be the first of quite a few in the next day or so. Fishing boats can be quite a hazard as they tend not to navigate with the ’straight line’ predictability of bigger ships. We started the day with over 4.5Km beneath us but that has reduced to less than 200m. Happily, the sea is relatively benign so the shelving has no adverse influence on the sea state.

I have chosen this milestone to open Rob and Lisa’s ‘95% of the way there’ present which I shall do this evening. I also reached into my bag of occasional presents and pulled out the last of these which turned out to be a birthday present from Elspeth - not an ‘occasional’ present after all. A sailing magazine which is just the thing to distract me as I begin counting the hours and minutes to my arrival.

I have seen glimpses of blue sky today but for the most part, as with the whole of this leg, the sky is obscured by low grey cloud. This prolonged lack of sun has produced a situation where I have been failing to replace the electricity I use from the ship’s batteries. I am trying to make up the deficit by running the engine for a longer time but it would be really helpful if the sun would come back. The wind generator is in need of new bearings and therefore of very little use.

We have the wind much more behind us which make for uneasy sailing. I find it very difficult to balance the sails on such a broad reach and the Aries therefore finds it hard to maintain a steady course. We are sailing flatter though which is just as well as I have had to bake bread today. We continue to make good progress and at times I allow myself to hope for an arrival in Plymouth on Thursday night.

Mon 25/06/07 1550GMT. 48 39N 14 30W. COG 075 SOG 6.6kts. Last 24hrs 85nm. To Plymouth 416nm.

The gales that were troubling the Western Approaches are migrating to the North Sea leaving the way clear for us to head for Plymouth so since 0800 this morning we have been romping our way across a lively sea in 20kts of wind on the beam and making a steady 6.5 to 7Kts with 2 reefs in the Main and a few rolls in the Genoa. It certainly feels good to be on our way again. Within a hour or so of sending this we will have less than 400 miles to go.

Our pace will ease of slowly as the wind moderates and backs around behind us. There is much crashing of water on deck but so far my repair to the leaky hatch seems to be holding back the flood.

We are now in sea area Sole and the UK Shipping forecast has become a regular part of my suite of weather information. My fingers are firmly crossed for a clear run in. I shalln’t be sorry when we are safe and sound in Plymouth.

Sun 24/06/07 1605GMT. 48 22N 16 29W. Hove-to. 24hrs logged 85nm. To Plymouth 496.

Setting the frustration of delay aside, waiting around out here is no great hardship. We are hove-to with three reefs in the Main and a scrap of Genoa out and hauled to windward. In 22Kts of wind it is quite comfortable. We got as close to Plymouth as 460nm yesterday but then headed west crossing the 500nm mark before jogging slowly east again.

The hatch over the saloon began to leak which is really horrid but I took the opportunity of a quiet period this morning to get out on deck and do what I can with it. I applied some sealant and plenty of sticky tape and I hope it will hold for a while. These bodged repairs to leaking hatches and windows rarely work so I won’t be surprised if water starts coming in again once the seas start washing over the deck.

I also found that a shackle on one of the Mainsheet blocks at the end of the boom had gone in the night so I replaced that. I have had to make a few minor repairs like that in the last few days. I suppose the stress of an ocean crossing is beginning to tell.

This is all the more reason, I think, to take it easy and not rush headlong into thick weather if you have the choice. Small breakages can lead to bigger problems and for the singlehander, to exhaustion which is the number one enemy.

Other than that, it is a case of obtaining weather information where I can and trying to work out how soon we can start making tracks for Plymouth. The shipping forecast is calling for a ‘possible Gale later’ in sea area Sole to the east of us but haven’t yet said for certain.

‘Fai Terra’ are slowly edging this way and I am gently nodding east towards them so we will be quite close together by this evening.

I continue to spend most time keeping warm in my bunk and reading or dozing. I shall be well rested by the time we get going again.

After a tiring day spent downloading and analyzing weather info, a discussion with Herb convinced me that the prudent thing to do is to head west away from the gale zone rather than try to sail it in an easterly direction. So I am plodding west overnight and will review the situation in the morning. The long and the short of it is that I think there will be gale force winds Sunday night and Monday east of 16W and it doesn’t not make sense to sail in a gale onto the continental shelf where the seabed
shallows abruptly from 2000m to less than 200m.

I am very pleased that ‘Fai Terra’ has taken the same attitude. As a fully crewed boat they could have proceeded but for me it only takes a simple gear failure in a gale to lead to exhaustion which is the single-hander’s chief enemy. My arrival in Plymouth will be delayed until at least Thursday and probably Friday but but least I will be safe and the boat should be fit to continue her onward voyage.

West of 16N by Sunday morning I should get significantly lighter winds and be able to heave-to until things have calmed down in the east.

After 24hrs of worry, it is a great relief to have made a decision. I think I’ll cook a curry tomorrow!

Sat 23 June 1610GMT. 48 15N 15 52W. COG 010T. SOG 5.0Kts. 24hrs 122. To Plymouth 475nm.

After Herb called last night for gales and possible storm force winds if we went east of 16N, ‘Fai Terra’ and I made a beeline NNW overnight. By the time we spoke by radio at 0900 this morning, I had downloaded weather GRIBs and weather fax none of which seem to support Herb’s fears. Too late, we are in an different weather system which won’t allow us to sail a course for Plymouth even if we want to.

My weather info does show stiff winds ahead for Sunday and Monday and possibly Tuesday but nothing we couldn’t cope with. Our current plan is to wait for the winds to back round to the N and then get back on course. Of course we are wary and are constantly seeking new weather info to be sure we are doing the right thing. If the winds are in the north we can always turn around and sail back west.

I’m afraid it hasn’t done anything for my spirits. I had been watching the weather so closely and felt that I had a reasonably clear run in though strong winds on Sun/Mon as I have said. I guess I was hoping that all the difficult winds of the voyage were behind me. I was beginning to count my chickens!

I guess the people at the Glastonbury Festival are feeling pretty sorry for themselves too, not to mention my brother Rob, starting his summer holiday on his new boat today.

I should be celebrating the passing of the 500nm to go point but it suddenly seems like a long way to have to sail.

It is a great comfort having ‘Fai Terra’ out here with me. We are speaking 4 times a day now comparing weather info. Not that they have much to share with me but it is very nice to be able to chew it over.

It all seemed to be going so well. One more day of light winds and then a brisk NNW to blow me into Plymouth. I had even revised my ETA to Wednesday (and even hoping for Tuesday night). This morning’s weather info looked good. Noo sign of the big blow that will delay my progress by two days.

As usual, it was Herb who was the bearer of bad tidings. The situation has changed so quickly. Now he is predicting Gales just as I would have been heading onto the continental shelf. Not a good scenario with the heavy traffic which I will face in the English Channel. So, just as I was looking forward to breaking the 500nm barrier in a few hours time, we have changed course, jogging NNE for the night. I guess I will be hove-to from Saturday evening through until Sunday afternoon. Maybe then I can
start to head east.

It is very demoralising but I am becoming accustomed to such setbacks. ‘Fai Terra’ is in the same boat as I. Luna Quest, who took a much more aggressive approach charging towards the Low in an attempt to stay in the strong winds - will be in Falmouth on Monday night - lucky fellows. (Ah - I am listening to Radio 4 and for the first time since I went away I hear ‘Sailing By’ known and loved by sailors and insomniacs as the tune which precedes the late night Shipping Forecast). It makes me feel so
close to home while these Lows, (the shipping forecast has just mentioned a new Atlantic Low developing in Finisterre. It will be coming this way!), tonight make the distance seem insurmountable. Isn’t it supposed to be summertime?

Fri 22/06/07 1550GMT. 46 35N 16 41W. COG 045T. SOG 5.1Kts. Last 24hrs logged 132nm. To Plymouth 546nm.

We have been motoring since 8.30am this morning and it looks likely that this will continue through tomorrow. Winds should then build in from the N and then go NNW and NW. Winds may be quite strong from the NNW (20-30Kts) as we approach the continental shelf on Sunday evening which is not great timing but should be manageable.

This day of motoring is quite well timed giving an opportunity for maintenance and checks and for me to rest up trying to clear my head cold before I start to make my approach to the busier waters of the Western Approaches. Having all of this electricity produced by the engine means I can listen freely to the radio, watch DVDs on the computer and recharge all of the rechargeable devices onboard. I can also run the radar continually which is a comfort. Not that I have seen anything since a ship yesterday.
‘Luna Quest’ reported seeing some fishing boats so I am being a little more vigilant now.

No milestones today but it does look as though I might hit the 500nm mark by midnight tonight.

I still can’t get used to the cold weather - I hope it will be warmer than this in England!