Tabitha’s Tales

Every now and again, I try to remember as many of my birthdays as I can but the list of memorable occasions is pitifully short. What stand out however, are the birthdays I have spent in exotic locations.

Of course I can’t actually remember by 2nd birthday but I am reliably informed that it was celebrated at 30,000ft on a flight home to the UK from Singapore. My 18th, I remember well, spent at anchor off Bombay. The rest are rather vague until my 40th which, having motored north to south through the canals and rivers of France was the day we arrived at the Mediterranean. The water on one side of the lock out of the Rhone was brown and the on the other side a vivid Mediterranean blue. Very exciting.
My 41st began with a swim in the River Valene on the Atlantic coast of France before we took ‘Aliz Motte’ up the river to Redon.

I don’t suppose I shall forget my 44th either, spent in the most wonderful harbour of Horta amid the international community of ocean sailors. With fine weather and the volcanic mountain of Pico dominating the setting, the day was spent mostly in working through the list of jobs that will free me to sail on, homeward bound, when the weather provides the opportunity.

An English couple stopped by to introduce themselves and stayed for a drink. Sailing from the British Virgin Islands in a modestly sized Jeaneau, they hand-steered the entire distance because they do not have an autohelm. They had monitored my conversations with Herb and had sympathised over the trek south. They were in a similar stretch of water as me for much of the way and had used my conversations with Herb to inform their routing decisions. They had a fairly miserable time which again suggests
that the decision to head south east was a good one. I hearby absolve Herb of any doubt I may have harbored. Incidentally, he (Stuart, the visitor not Herb), is originally from Chelmondiston, Suffolk and was best friends with the Hancock boys who lived at RHS as the same time as my family. It is indeed a small world.

Tonight, I joined the two remaining crew from the boat next door, for a meal ashore. Driving in a taxi along the coast, we went in search of a steakhouse for which they had a recommendation (from Raymarine??!?). Finding it closed, we ended up with the taxi driver’s choice and enjoyed a wonderful mean with red wine from Pico, the island just to the south of here.

Tomorrow, I am due to join them again for a tour of the island as we are hiring a car for the day.

It has certainly been a memorable birthday. Many thanks for the good wishes and cards, etc.

In the rain, mist and cold wind, it was more like arriving in the Isle of Mull than Horta in the Azores. However, the sun is out and what a lovely place. The mist lifted to reveal the most extraordinary volcanic mountain across the channel and lush green hills.

I fell on my feet, rafting up alongside a large yacht with a delivery crew just in direct from Barbados. They are clearing up the boat and have given me quite a quantity of food. I also had the near offer of paid work cleaning the boat for them - good money apparently but nothing further has come of it yet. I have the feeling that the ship’s company is not a happy one and they just can’t wait to discharge their responsibilities and go home. There autohelm broke down 3000 ago and they have been hand
steering since. They are quite a gregarious bunch very keen to party. I let the cat out of the bag that it is my 44th birthday tomorrow so no doubt I shall be led astray.

Also bumped into ‘Lost Horizon’, the Rival 41 that left Bermuda at the same moment as me. As I guessed, they have been here for two days having taken a straight rumb line here. They listened in on me being led south by Herb and must have cringed, however, they did have their worst crossing yet with constant head winds whereas I am quite content with my crossing. 16 days was the best I had hoped for so 17 can’t be too bad. They are coming aboard for a drink tonight so I had to turn down an invitation
from the boat next door. Nice to be in demand!

The formalities of bringing Tabitha into the EU are underway and hopefully won’t detain me here for long. What will are the list of jobs which I want to complete before I leave.

Replace Genoa furling line
Adjust lead on Aries steering line and end for end (done)
Refit kicking strap fitting - have rivets but need to borrow larger rivet gun
Check Forestay lower clevis pin (done)
Check for Genoa halyard chafe at masthead
Repair Trilight at masthead
Repair galley light
Repair lamp above port quarter berth (given up - too invasive)
Patch bimini
Re-whip stanchion repair

And the usual water, diesel, gas, provisions, internet/email, laundry, shower (done). I would have said that is two or three days worth. It is traditional in Horta for cruisers to leave a painted emblem on the concrete walls so I also have to design and paint a suitable painting.

Very happy to be here.

Tue 29/05/07 0800GMT. Horta. 24 hrs 128nm. To Horta 0nm.

Arrived Horta in pooring rain. 17 days almost exactly. Rafted alongside at customs dock.

Mon 28/05/07 1040GMT. 38 30N 31 09W. COG 089. SOG 6.9Kts. 24hrs 144nm. To Horta 119nm.

At this rate we will have to slow down a bit to ensure we don’t arrive too early tomorrow. A front is likely to pass over tonight bringing a bit more wind and some rain which could impact on visibility. As a single-hander the open ocean is no problem but coming alongside, as I will have to in Horta, is quite a challenge especially in stronger winds. It would certainly be advantageous to arrive at a time when there is someone to help take a line at the Customs dock!

Yesterday I said we had no bite on the fishing but it seems we may have had a particularly big one. I was using the reel rather than the fishing rod and didn’t notice the fish. When I hauled it in for the evening I found all the tackle gone. My guess is that a reasonably sized fish took the lure, I didn’t notice and then a big fish or shark took the little fish.

After dark last night I noticed we had a limp kicking strap. Upon inspection I found that the fitting beneath the boom had come free in its slide. After 30 years, the monel rivets securing the stainless steel fitting to the boom had corroded through. This is the second time we have had a gear failure due to the corrosion of the monel rivets in such a situation. It is notable that there didn’t seem to be a barrier layer between the two metal types which there definitely is on the fittings where the
stays and shrouds join the mast. None the less, it is a reminder that Tabitha is not as young as she once was. I have inspected the fittings on the mast numerous times but I hadn’t checked out that boom fitting. Jury rigging the kicking strap was no trouble and I shall be able to make a better job once we are in Horta.

More signs of progress. I have started downloading my weather faxes from Northwood, England instead of America. They have always come through more clearly but didn’t adequately cover the western Atlantic. Somehow it feels good to be back in the hands of the Royal Navy rather than the US weather service!

It’s still looking a bit grim for Southern England this Bank Holiday weekend!

Sun 27/05/07 1030GMT. 38 28N 34 08W. 24Hrs logged 136nm. To Horta 260nm.

Having sailed 1810nm since Bermuda it feels as though I am nearly there. Writing on Sunday evening I have only 208nm to go which feels like no distance at all. The weather continues to be good with light SW winds giving us 5 to 6 knots over the ground on a course heading directly for Horta.

The fishing line has been streamed since yesterday morning, (forgot to bring it in last night), but no bites. I reached another landmark today speaking for the first time to Bill (G4FRN) at the UK Maritime Net. He is the first person I have spoken to in England for a very long time.

It is, however becoming harder to reach the American stations that I have used for email. There seem to be many less European stations so consequently it can be difficult to get through at some times of day.

My weather fax this morning showed nasty weather approaching the UK for the Bank Holiday weekend. I hope it isn’t too bad. My weather should be good until Thursday/Friday when it looks as though Horta can expect some strong SW winds.

I have hopes of arriving in Horta on Tuesday. If I do, the trip from Bermuda will have taken 17 days. That is not too bad at all.

Sat 26/05/07 1030GMT. 38 37N 36 55W. COG 088T SOG 6Kts. 24hrs 102. To Horta 390nm

102nm over the ground is the worst 24hr run this trip but wind and boat speed have just picked up so I don’t mind. At least it was all in the right direction. I had thought that the Azores High would be sunny but as yet we have had overcast conditions for about three days.

I am beginning now, to look forward to an arrival in Horta, possibly on Tuesday. The wind is due to pick up and a front is due to come through that day but I shalln’t let it dampen my spirits even if it dampens me as it probably will. That reminds me. I have finally decided that my leaky sailing jacket is beyond saving. I had tried to re-proof for the ocean crossing with Scotchguard spray but it hasn’t worked as I found out during the big blow last week. So, in Horta I plan to seek out a waterproof
jacket - just a basic one - whatever the local fishermen wear will do me.

A small sign of progress last night when I had to send my emails via a station in the Netherlands rather than one in America, Canada or the Caribbean as I have been for the last year or more. It made me feel quite close to home. That said. the stations seem to be fewer over this side which will make it harder for me to get through.

Yesterday afternoon a ship passed by heading west and as I write we have a sailing yacht on a parallel course about 2 miles off the starboard beam. However, they are not answering my VHF calls. Shame as it would be good to chat. It could be ‘Hercules’ who I have heard talking to Herb as they get closer to me. Everybody seems to have a faster boat! I haven’t overtaken anybody . . .yet!

Fri 25/05/07 1036GMT. 38 24N 38 59W. COG 075 SOG 4Kts. 24hrs 107nm. To Horta 488nm.

Life is very easy out here at 38N 38W. I get up late - well actually, I am forced out of my bunk just before 10am GMT to set up the computer and radio to receive two weather faxes. Then I download my email which includes a Grib file showing predictions for wind in the area I will be for the next 5 days. Then breakfast which for the last few days has been bacon and eggs.

The engine is run - this morning for nearly 60 mins as it is beginning to look as though I may not get a sustained period of motoring between here and the Azores - which is good news but not for the batteries. The engine chills the cool blocks in the fridge & freezer. While the engine is running I do the washing up and today I cleaned the cooker.

Local noon happens at around 1500GMT when I would normally take a noon site to get my Latitude but the last few days have been overcast. Another sight would be taken a couple of hours before or after this to cross with the latitude.

I look at the position on the electronic chart on the computer, review the weather, make sail adjustments and keep a lookout. I generally patrol the deck once a day to check for chaff or any other emerging ‘issues’. Today I found some slight chaff on one of the steering lines from the Aries so rigged a snatch block to give it a slightly better lead until I can attend to it in Horta. The other day it was one of the anchor lashings that had worn through.

Other than this, I spend a lot of time reading. I have crossed the Atlantic eastbound twice in the last couple of days in the company of the amazing singlehander Howard Blackburn. In the late 19th Century, he was a fisherman out of Gloucester, Mass. As a young man fishing north of the Grand Banks, his Dory became separated from the ‘mother ship’ in a storm. Over several days he rowed about 30nm in freezing conditions. Loosing his mittens, his hands became frozen to the oars but he rowed on, the palms
of his solidly frozen hands wearing away before his eyes as he rowed. He lost all fingers and most of his toes but at the turn of the century made two successful solo Atlantic crossings - from Gloucester Mass to Gloucester, England and from Gloucester, Mass to Lisbon. This was before Joshua Slocum departed on his legendary solo circumnavigation. Howard Blackburn is still very much considered a hero in Gloucester, Mass. A fishing port that for me was one of the highlights of our trip along the US
East Coast (though Sue compared it unkindly to Lowestoft!).

Lunch happens whenever I am hungry but normally between 1500 and 1600GMT. Supper is usually just a snack.

I have a radio sched at 1300GMT but no luck today. The next is at 1900 and then the Herb show begins at 2000GMT with boats checking in for 30mins before that. He generally doesn’t get around to talking to me until gone 2100hrs. I find it quite a tense time listening to him advising boats currently as far apart as the Caribbean, Newfoundland, New York and Bay of Biscay. There is always someone under threat of heavy weather. By the time Herb has spoken to me it is beginning to get dark. I will adjust
the course and sails according to his advice and my judgment and generally settle the boat down for the night.

I also have a sundowner after I have spoken to Herb and last night, just as night fell, I needlessly murdered another fish. The line had only been streamed for a couple of hours when I heard the whizzing of the reel which means a bite or a big bit of weed. I did everything correctly, hove-to and tired the fish by letting it swim about for a while but it got a burst of energy when it looked me in the eye as I tried to haul it out of the water and broke free taking the lure and half a wire trace with
it. Shame as it was an Atlantic Mackerel of a perfect size for me.

I spend most of the night time hours in my bunk waking at regular intervals for a look outside - this is as much to check we are still on course and sailing well as to check for other shipping. During this period, the radar is set to switch on and have a look around every 10 mins and to sound an alarm if it sees anything.

As I said, with easy weather and very little shipping, life is easy out here at the 38s.

Thur 24/05/07 1040GMT. 37 55N 41 08W. COG 080 SOG 5kts. 24hrs logged 132nm. To Horta 592nm.

The power of suggestion is great.

In a quiet English town, the Head Teacher posts that the 6th Form, away on summer camp, had curry for tea. A wife, instructed to leave out nothing, reports this in her daily communication and a man alone in a boat 2000 miles away and 500 miles from the nearest land has curry the following day for lunch and then probably for supper as well. Somewhere in the world a butterfly flaps its wings . . .

Fair weather for Horta - Herb suggests lighter but favorable winds could carry us all the way to Horta. Last night was busy, one of the quicker boats that has been speaking to Herb sailed past along the horizon. I was expecting them as they report their incredible progress to Herb daily and he had given them the same waypoint to aim for as he gave me. I believe they left Bermuda at least 5 days after me. Then one of those gargantuan Container ships sailed by at 23 knots. It is possible they left
Felxistowe (our local container port and the largest in England) as recently as Sunday.

Bread baked, lazy day. Overcast but clearing now.

Wed 23/05/07 1036GMT. 36 55N 43 33W. COG 052T SOG 6.2Kts. 24hr log 138nm. To Horta 716nm.

Contrary to appearances, I am trying to resist counting, too closely, the miles traveled, the days to go ,etc. But I do notice that we have logged approximately 1370nm since we left Bermuda 11 and a bit days ago. Horta is a little over 700 miles as the ‘motorboat steams’ but this sailing boat will have to sail a little further to get there. We will also undoubtedly encounter some light airs as we attempt to pass across the top of the high so we won’t be making the same speed either. I will probably
put the engine on for some of it. I’ll need to as I have allowed the batteries to run down a bit in anticipation of having to motor - perhaps on Friday.

We are doing well at the moment, almost too well. My latest weather Grib file shows that the Azores high won’t move south until the weekend - which may be too late for me to gain maximum benefit from the shift. Who knows?

It is very quiet out here. I haven’t seen a ship for some days now. The radar detector has flashed up a couple of time so there is someone out there but I suspect that the radar scanner on top of a sizable ship can beam out for 40 or 50 miles which is why I never actually see them. I also never see the con trails from aircraft. I am obviously not on the flight path. I heard dolphins yesterday but didn’t see them. Amazingly, there are always birds around. I assume, so far from land, that they are
Storm Petrels enjoying the northern summer before heading south again.

The quicker boats that I have been talking to which left Bermuda just before me are on the east side of the high now and have seen fishing boats and the like. One of them can even get the island of Flores on their radar - lucky them.

I have started taking sun sights again and have been relieved to find that the GPS is out by only a few miles! Very satisfying! Mind you, I streamed the trailing log this morning to find it exaggerates our speed by 36% - if only! I think I need to give it a longer bit of string.

I notice that the colour of the ocean has changed. Today, instead of the usual vivid blue, it has a definite green hew. I don’t know why as the sky looks much the same colour as ever.

Tue 22/05/07 1040GMT. 35 46N 45 56W. COG 050T SOG 5Kts. 24hr logged 124nm. To Horta 845nm.

I’ve actually been sunbathing today. Well reading in the cockpit in the sunshine. With the wind veered slightly to the SSE at 15 knots we are sailing more upright and there is no spray on deck. It has been a day for making minor repairs, taking the odd photograph and sunsight and washing. At long last, a descent body wash and hair wash.

At least the weather in this part of the North Atlantic seems to be behaving normally. The big barrier between us and the Azores is now the Azores High. In the northern hemisphere, winds rotate clockwise around a high pressure system so we are working our way north and east with a plan to skirt across the top of it and sail back down its eastern side to make the Azores. Obligingly, it seems that the High itself may move a little south this weekend to accommodate me.

Last night I celebrated the half-way home point by opening Rob and Lisa’s present. Whether I am, in reality, half-way from Florida to the UK may not bare close inspection but I decided it must be about time. I am trying not to count the miles and the days to closely.

If you are interested in seeing where I am, and where I have been, have a look at my position on Shiptrak on the internet. I am not 100% sure how to direct you there but I should think the first step would be to Google ‘Shiptrak’. When you get there input my amateur radio call-sign M0MHB (note that is a ‘zero’ not an ‘oh’!) and you should see a map with my daily positions plotted. The positions are kindly input each day by Jack (AA3GZ) who runs the Italian Maritime Mobile Net.