Tabitha’s Tales

Tonight is the first stifling and airless night we can recall this =
year.

It shouldn’t be like this of course. We had planned a gentle sunset to =
sunrise sail 70 miles north and west to the island of Eluthera but as =
the afternoon drew on the wind dropped steadily until our anemometer =
was reading a rare 0.0 knots of wind.

The light wind had moved into the south west rendering our scenic =
sandy bay less comfortable so we moved half a mile up the coast to =
Smith’s Bay. Smiths is nothing more than a commercial harbor used two =
or three times a week by the mail boat and other small freighters but =
it has more or less all-round protection and is easy to leave after =
dark. We had tired of the slight but persistent roll that the more =
open bay had to offer.

The resort did lend us kayaks and yesterday we paddled up a long creek =
of small mangroves and crystal clear water over bright white sand. We =
should have seen turtles and small sharks but somehow they evaded us.

The girls made the most of the wonderful golden sandy beach, possibly =
the best we have ever visited, and enjoyed the resort beach toys =
taking care that they weren’t wanted by any of the paying guests.

Now we are sitting in still air reeking of anti-mosquito spray. =
Hopefully the mossies will have gone by bedtime as it has become my =
habit to sleep in the cockpit enjoying bright panorama of stars =
overhead.

Of the two girls, it is Elspeth who has taken to the sailing life with =
the greatest zeal. With her enthusiasm at an all time high she has =
enrolled in a dinghy sailing course at our sailing club in Woodbridge. =
The sailing course starts with a briefing the day after she arrives =
home so she has managed to move effortlessly and without interruption =
towards her next sailing adventure. I wish I could manage the same =
thing!

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The climb to the Hermitage at Mount Alvernia was relatively easy despite the fact that it sits atop the highest point in the Bahamas. The Architect turned Anglican then RC Priest and Franciscan Monk retired to the hill in 1939 where he built, by hand, a stone replica in miniature of a Franciscan Friary complete with tiny chapel, bell tower, cloisters, kitchen and monks cell. There he lived until 1956 when he died to be buried there also.

Commanding 360 degree views of the island, it is the most inspirational setting and the Rev John Hawes aka Father Jerome is fondly remembered by some many of the locals for his kindness and humility.

We had the whole sight to ourselves for a long time until an American couple appeared having found it more of a struggle than we did to climb to the top. Amazing that we had to go to the top of the highest point in the Bahamas to meet for the first time, some boaters that we first spoke on the radio to back in Georgia in October/November when they called us to point out wild horses on an island we were both passing at the time.

Of course we have no camera now and the replacement camera also met with a wet end but luckily Sue had thought to bring her sketchbook so we have a visual record of the scene.

Whilst Mount Alvernia offers a panoramic view of the boats at anchor in the wide bay below, we have found that wide bays make for rolly anchorages. With more weather expected we moved anchorage today to find ourselves in a much more intimate setting. A setting in fact that rich tourists from around the world pay a fortune to enjoy at the Fernandez Bay Village. An exclusive and very civilized chalet resort set on one of the best crescent beaches we have ever seen.

We wondered how they would feel about us dropping anchor in their bay but, of course, they couldn’t have been more welcoming when we rowed ashore to ask whether it would be okay to use the beach. They must know that we won’t be eating at their expensive restaurant but the resort doesn’t seem to be busy at the moment and it seems likely that we will be able to make use of their loan bikes and canoes. I have already used the internet facility.

It seems that again, that we may have fallen on our feet by coming here.

We rushed through school as quickly as possible this morning to =
explore ashore before the gentle onshore wind filled-in to much and we =
would be forced to move.

Old Bight was possibly the least developed village we have visited in =
the Bahamas with many houses still using outdoor kitchens and other =
outdoor facilities. People were friendly but their was very little to =
see. At the Primary School, the bell rang for lunch and little =
children flooded from the yellow and blue buildings dotted at random =
around a course mud playground. This said, we have noted how seriously =
Bahamaians take the education of their children.

Having rowed ashore in a gentle onshore slop we had anticipated that =
departure might be more of an exercise and so it proved. I think we =
all got wet as we launched the dinghy through the swell and pulled =
away from the shore with a dinghy half full of water.

A 40 minute chug across the bay bought us to New Bight where we now =
lie at anchor beneath one of the key landmarks of the Bahamas. The =
Hermitage, hand built on the highest hill in the Bahamas by Father =
Jerome (RIBA Architect turned Priest) in the early part of the last =
Century. Father Jerome also supervised the reconstruction of the two =
churches we visited at Clarence Town on Long Island. We haven’t yet =
been ashore here, let alone climbed to the Hermitage, but it will be =
(literally) a highlight with 360deg views and an awesome testament to =
his faith and humility.

Last night was special as the first Bahamian anchorage which we have =
had entirely to ourselves for more than a few hours. Things looked =
promising for tonight as well until 4 or 5 boats sailed in from George =
Town.

———-
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We rushed through school as quickly as possible this morning to =
explore ashore before the gentle onshore wind filled-in to much and we =
would be forced to move.

Old Bight was possibly the least developed village we have visited in =
the Bahamas with many houses still using outdoor kitchens and other =
outdoor facilities. People were friendly but their was very little to =
see. At the Primary School, the bell rang for lunch and little =
children flooded from the yellow and blue buildings dotted at random =
around a course mud playground. This said, we have noted how seriously =
Bahamaians take the education of their children.

Having rowed ashore in a gentle onshore slop we had anticipated that =
departure might be more of an exercise and so it proved. I think we =
all got wet as we launched the dinghy through the swell and pulled =
away from the shore with a dinghy half full of water.

A 40 minute chug across the bay bought us to New Bight where we now =
lie at anchor beneath one of the key landmarks of the Bahamas. The =
Hermitage, hand built on the highest hill in the Bahamas by Father =
Jerome (RIBA Architect turned Priest) in the early part of the last =
Century. Father Jerome also supervised the reconstruction of the two =
churches we visited at Clarence Town on Long Island. We haven’t yet =
been ashore here, let alone climbed to the Hermitage, but it will be =
(literally) a highlight with 360deg views and an awesome testament to =
his faith and humility.

Last night was special as the first Bahamian anchorage which we have =
had entirely to ourselves for more than a few hours. Things looked =
promising for tonight as well until 4 or 5 boats sailed in from George =
Town.

———-
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Our plans to sail from our anchorage early this morning were set back =
by a distinct lack of wind. We delayed our departure and then sailed =
off the anchor at sunrise to find that we had little choice but to use =
the engine until the wind began to fill in.

For the first hour of the trip our destination switched between Cat =
Island and Conception as the wind settled down but eventually the =
decision was made to sail to Cat. There followed the most wonderful 56 =
mile sail in a wind varying from 8 to 10 knots. From just forward of =
the beam it worked its way slowly around to the quarter giving the =
most wonderful sail in a long slow ocean swell. The only =
disappointment was, again, our failure to catch any fish. It should =
have been a good passage for fishing though we have noticed that we =
have better luck in more boisterous seas.

By the time the wind veered around to the quarter we had reached Hawks =
Nest Point on Cat Island and it was time to head up a little so our =
progress was refreshed and we sailed up to the most wonderful 3 mile =
long deserted beach where we anchored under sail. The picture was not =
quite so perfect as our noses soon detected the presence of a sewage =
outfall and we started the engine to motor down the beach a little.

With sunset fast approaching we quickly launched the dinghy and rowed =
ashore for a walk along the beach.

Perfect!

To see our location put the following position into Google Earth - 24 =
13.66′ N 75 23.82′ W

———-
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However circular we try to design these trips, it seems impossible to eliminate a point at which we feel we are ‘turning around’ and heading home. This week, leaving Thompson Bay, Long island for the last time has felt very much like that.

‘Dream Catcher’ appeared and the children were able to have one last fling before bidding each other farewell, possibly forever. And today we both took our leave, ‘Dream Catcher’ to head south towards the Jumentos and ‘Tabitha’ to make our way slowly north and west.

We also said goodbye to ‘Meander’ a British boat and one of only two traditional gaff rigged boats we have got to know this trip. However, there is the possibility that they too will soon be sailing for Cat Island so we may yet see more of them.

Returning from hitching back to the boat with a filled gas bottle, I was troubled to find that one boat, with family, said that their bottles last 3 months. Ours last only 1 which is very confusing. I think the use of our grill (Americans call them broilers and don’t generally have them) may account for part of the difference whilst the shear age and inefficiency of our cooker must account for the rest. One thing I am certain of is that we don’t have a gas leak. We look forward to a kettle boiling
in half the time when the time comes to replace our failing stove.

After a final washing session at the well, (during which we filled a jerry can for our drinking water only to face the problem of what to do about the tadpoles swimming in it!), we made our departure and sailed a short ten miles to Simms where we are now anchored. It knocks ten miles of our journey tomorrow and also gave us the chance to anchor off the Administrators office and buzz in in the dinghy to arrange an extension to our Bahamian visas which are due to run out in a week or so.

Tomorrow we make an early start and have until we reach the extreme north end of the island to decide whether to head NNW for 35 miles to Cat Island or ESE for 25 miles to Rum Cay. Luckily, we receive a good weather forecast soon after we set off which will help with the decision.

The wind blew a steady 25 knots today, We were well sheltered in the anchorage at Thompson Bay though it did get a little bumpy at times.

After school, I made a trip across to the Atlantic shore where I gathered and cleaned another bunch of 10 coconuts. They really are a fabulous food and tremendously filling. Meanwhile, Elspeth and Peta played ashore building a rather smart tree house on the beach with their friends from ‘Dream Catcher’ and new arrivals ‘Side by Side’.

Later, full party gear - waterproof legs and tops - was required for the short trip in the dinghy to ‘Dream Catcher’ for a tuna feast. ‘Side by Side’ (a catamaran of course) had caught 6 tuna that day.

Well, we certainly shalln’t be having restaurant tuna anymore. It was fabulous. Like the most tender and delicate sirloin steak imaginable and totally different to all tuna we have ever tasted. We have had only limited luck with fishing this trip but will be going at it with renewed vigor now we have tasted what might be possible.

In the tropics as we are now, darkness comes early at close on 6pm. =
Most invitations for sundowner drinks aboard other boats suggest 5pm =
but 4pm is not uncommon and we have heard 8pm refereed to as the =
cruiser’s midnight. Sue is a night bird whereas I am definitely a =
morning person. Whilst this is very convenient for keeping watches at =
sea, this combination is not to be recommended for a harmonious =
marriage.

I have realised that my submissions to the log have become less =
frequent lately and notice that this coincides with an increasingly =
early bed time. Whilst in the early part of this trip I would sit down =
at the computer to write emails after supper, now I find myself =
retiring to bed as early as 7.30pm.

Elspeth, who takes pride on going to bed as late as possible is =
positively disgusted by my new habit. So, in order to please her and =
perhaps restore the fortunes of my online log I am here at the =
keyboard at 8.10pm tonight.

After school today we were struck with the idea of hitch hiking to =
Clarence Town, a port on the south east coast of the island. We made =
the twenty miles or so easily in three lifts. Again, not one car =
passed us by. Clarence Town is the major town on the island but when =
we climbed to the top of the tower on at the Roman Catholic church we =
were surprised to find it is really no bigger than Bredfield (a small =
village close to ours in Suffolk, England).

To the delight of the girls, as we walked around the village we =
managed to pick up a puppy of around 3 months which attached itself to =
us and despite our efforts followed us everywhere. Of course, with one =
dog in tow, we were of much greater interest to the other village dogs =
and barking accompanied us whenever we passed a house with dogs. =
Worse, a further two dogs attached themselves to us as we processed =
out to the marina and back towards the village grocery. Eventually the =
two older dogs left us but the puppy refused to go home. Nobody at the =
shop knew to whom the puppy belongs and were were at a loss to know =
how we would separate ourselves from it.

Eventually we found the Anglican church and managed to enter the south =
door with the puppy outside and escape by the west door. For all we =
know it may still be waiting for us to come out.

Later, a drink on the beach around an open fire whilst ‘Dream Catcher’ =
roasted ‘weinners’ (frankfurters) but we had to return to the boat for =
a full roast chicken supper with trimmings.

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Our day started with an email from ‘Dream Catcher’ to say they were heading out to Conception Island. This made it unlikely that we would meet up with them again so there was great gloom aboard ‘Tabitha’ for a while.

Our bottled gas for cooking normally lasts us about 4 weeks and sure enough one bottle ran out yesterday. We only have two so I prefer to get them filled quite promptly. Going ashore in Long Island is always a pleasure so Elspeth and I set out today with the empty bottle to hitch hike the 6 or 7 miles to where we have seen a gas filling plant.

Sure enough, the first vehicle to come by stopped and picked us up. A catholic priest from Clarence Town on the other side of the island. He told us that the Anglican church dominates in the Bahamas with Baptists coming in second and the Methodists making a strong bid for third. I wasn’t quite clear where that left the Roman Catholics but not far behind them I am sure!

Arriving at the gas depot it was clear that no one was around. Like many businesses, it is attached to a house but no one was home so we decided to hitch further on in the hope of finding a liquor store and return a little later (no our supplies aren’t quite that depleted but it filled the time). Our next lift was a little slow in coming as the island is less populated to the north. This Bahamian family took us to the Blue Chip which is not a liquor store but a local bar that could sell us a bottle or two. Mario, the owner welcomed us in with open arms, sold us a bottle of Bacardi and refused to charge us for the beer and orange juice we had at the bar. His wife runs the cafe side of the establishment and was serving regulars with some interesting looking food. We have found it difficult to find real Bahamnian food so Elspeth and I shared a plate of fried chicken, rice & peas and coleslaw
for $8.

Back on the road we arrived again at the gas plant but it was still deserted. Then a car stopped and dropped off the owners son who had been hitchhiking past his home and had seen us so had broken his journey to come and help us. Unfortunately he was not able to fill our bottle there and then but we left it in his hands and continued our lift.

Arriving back at the beach we heard a call and turned to see the crew of ‘Dream Catcher’ hailing us. They had changed their plans and had come over to Thompson Bay instead.

Tonight we will be ashore again for the ‘Happy Hour’ at the local bar. A weekly event which is frequented by most of the cruising boats. On Monday we will hitchhike back north to recover our gas bottle.

It turns out we didn’t need to go anywhere to fill our tanks with =
fresh water. It came to us!

It fell in the night in great quantities. I went out with a bucket to =
collect some but realised that just by blocking one scupper (deck =
drain), and removing our water filler cap, the rain water would flow =
straight into the tanks (thanks to Peter Brett, ‘Tabitha’s designer). =
It had been raining heavily for a good 30 minutes so the salt had =
washed of and the water was good. Leaving the cap off the tank I went =
back to sleep to the sound of lovely freshwater flowing into the =
tanks. I was awoken later by the bilge high water alarm. The tanks =
were full and overflowing into the bilge! We had collected nearly 100 =
gallons of the nicest tasting water we have had for ages.

Now we are back at Thompson Bay. Long Island and catching up with =
school and work on the boat. A week of west winds is keeping us tied =
down here but there are worse places to be weatherbound!

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