Tabitha’s Tales

>From Cape Negro Island we sailed/motored around Cape Sable. We didn’t =
break any speed records this time but the water temperature did drop =
to an all time low of 6.6 deg C. We carried the tide (and the fog ) =
around the Cape and tucked into Clarks Harbour right under the tip of =
the Cape before it turned against us.

Clarks Harbour is a large area of water within the shelter of the =
rocky shelves and off-lying islands of the Cape. It is entirely given =
over to fishing. We anchored comfortably in the lee of one of the =
islands.

I don’t think they see many leisure boats in the harbour because not =
one but two of three fishermen who chugged out for a chat assumed that =
we had broken down! Why else would a yacht come into their harbour? =
The fact is that we have enjoyed the commercial harbours enormously. =
The fishermen have been tremendously helpful and friendly and it has =
been fascinating to learn so much about their way of life.

In contrast, the places with yachts are the only places where we get =
charged for mooring, and the whole business seems so much more =
superficial. As we head south we gloomily anticipate increasing =
reintegration with the yachting fraternity. I suppose visiting harbour =
where a visit by a yacht is a rare event harks back to the early days =
of cruising under sail. People are interested in what you are doing =
and keen to help. As yachts become more common, there interest tends =
to turn to the financial return that can be gleaned from visiting =
yachts. Its quite understandable.

To the English, a Canadian accent can be difficult to distinguish from =
American. This was certainly not true in Clarks Harbour where we found =
the locals speak with an accent that sounds like a Norfolk accent with =
a West country lilt. Two local lads came by for a chat and later =
returned with a gift of two freshly caught lobsters (”If any one asks, =
you don’t know where you got ‘em”). It is off season and when measured =
them with our lobster gauge both were clearly undersized. Having =
wrestled with our conscience’s we later returned them to the wild .

The next morning - Clarks Harbour was clear of fog - a world first!. =
Unfortunately we were not long underway before it came down thick =
enough to force us outside of the islands rather than taking the =
pretty short cut through Schooner Passage.

Coming back into Yarmouth was like returning to home waters. We picked =
up a vacant mooring and rowed ashore to be greeted by Emery with an =
invitation to supper at his home. We went last night and sampled a =
variety of Canadian home cooking including mussels, clams and =
scallops, a traditional Arcadian pie of grated potato and chicken, and =
a dish of pasta and turkey.

Emery and Karen have again made us enormously welcome. Karen is taking =
the girls swimming at the local lake this afternoon and no doubt they =
will be around this evening for the parade of lights. Of course we =
won’t miss the opportunity to set our new strings of coloured lights =
out along the rail.

Actually, being moored near the processional route this is quite =
important for collision avoidance. One participant of in the parade of =
lights at Shelburne said that what with all of the bright lights on =
the boats it was very difficult to see anything else so we need to =
become a beacon ourselves.

Yesterday was spent trying to resolve our problem with the auto pilot =
unfortunately without success. It is almost certainly a blown diode, =
capacitor or resistor in the fluxgate compass but no one repairs =
electronics nowadays and I certainly wouldn’t know where to start.

Today I take on the problem of the Tri light at the top of the mast =
which has also stopped working. Another trip for me to the top of the =
mast but at least it is a nice clear day.

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We didn’t plan to spend more than a week in Shelburne but Tropical =
Storm Beryl determined that we would. It was a great destination but =
we were quite happy to take our leave this morning. One highlight was =
the parade of lights. A sort of waterbourne carnival in which =
fishermen and sailors decorate their boats in lights and parade after =
dark. It is quite competitive with big prizes for the best entrants.

Elspeth and Peta were talking to one fisherman as he decorated his =
boat and he gave them two strings of coloured electric lights =
totalling 60ft. Of course we hung them along the rails for the parade =
which passed close by us. With the deck lights on as well, we must =
have looked quite a picture in the hazy twilight.

It is slightly sad to have turned around. We have found so far that =
our trip got better and better as we sailed north and east. I hope =
that the converse won’t be true. We have decided to linger in Maine =
until the end of September which will give us more time to explore =
Maine - said to be one of the best cruising grounds in the world - and =
also keep us in a better location as the hurricane season begins to =
bite.

Tonight we are back in Cape Negro Island in the exact spot where we =
anchored for the sheep shearing. Places are rarely as good on the =
second visit though there are many exceptions to this rule.

Today was one of those rare fog free days when we were able to enjoy =
the beauty of Nova Scotia with its rocky outcrops and Scots Pine =
covered islands.

We were also able to enjoy experimenting with the Aries gear for the =
first time to steer us both on a course relative to the wind and, =
using an old electronic tiller pilot to control it, on a compass =
bearing. The former uses no electric power and should steer the boat =
in winds of gale force and the former is helpful when motoring where a =
course relative to the wind is not the aim.

We were delighted that both worked really well though under ideal =
conditions for each system. We do need to repair the main auto pilot =
as soon as we can because it is inconvenient and under some =
conditions, risky, to have to go to the back of the boat to adjust the =
new ‘auto Aries’. It is great two have several options and particular =
thrilling to have bought the Aries into operation. It will save =
worries about power on longer trips, will cope better in stronger =
winds and heavier seas and I think, adds something to the whole =
experience.

My dive to tighten the propeller nut went well. It was loose and I did =
my best to tighten it. Though the problem clunk has not quite gone =
completely, it is reassuring to know that it isn’t a gear box problem. =
I will dive again when we have the opportunity of warmer, clearer =
water. I suspect an additional washer is needed between prop and nut.

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Beryl past by with no ill effects for us. One of the pontoons at the =
local sailing club broke free in the high waves but maximum winds only =
reached around 45 knots. Today we are stowing the storm lines and =
restoring things to a more normal situation. We plan to move out to a mooring =
but first I have to put on my wet suit and dive down to tighten the nuts =
holding the propeller which seem to be a little loose and may account =
for the clunk we have when going from ahead to astern.

We are looking forward to the parade of lights (on boats) and the =
fireworks this evening.

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We are enjoying some of the best weather so far this trip while we =
prepare for the worst weather yet.

There is an air of calm anticipation on the wharf as we await winds =
which I guess will be between 40 to 60 knots with some higher gusts. =
If it stays out of the north as the current weather forecasts =
suggests, we should be okay and even if it goes north it will =
hopefully just be a matter of discomfort.

We have numerous lines out ashore and to other boats. All loose things =
on deck have been stowed below and the sails have been lashed down and =
we have a heavy anchor out to the north east. There is very little =
more that we can do so now we are off to hear some live music at the =
festival.

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It seems that we too, are caught in the honey trap of Shelburne. =
However, we do have good cause, namely the arrival of ‘Blackberry =
Ramble’ who are friends we made in Annapolis 12 months ago. They have =
twin daughters Judy and Ella aged 12 yrs who made fast friends with =
Elspeth and Peta. We knew they were headed to Nova Scotia this summer =
but it still a very pleasant turn of events to be able to spend some =
time with them again. They spent the winter in the Bahamas as we plan =
to do this year - we are a bit taken aback to hear that the water =
temperature in the winter there was quite similar to what it is here!

I have been working hard on bringing the Aries wind vane back into =
commission and also in setting up an improvised electronic autohelm =
system to work via the Aries. Hopefully, both will be operational by =
the time we leave here on Sunday or Monday.

We shall be here for a few more days until tropical storm Beryl has =
passed. The US Hurricane Centre produce predictions which fan out from =
the current position of the tropical storm in a cone shape for three =
and five day predictions. The five day prediction has Shelburne at the =
in the centre of the cone on Saturday so we have moved into a position =
alongside some other yachts inside the substantial government dock.

It is a bit early to have taken such defensive action as it is a =
glorious day and we would be much more comfortable at anchor away from =
the noise and bustle of the commercial dock, however, if the storm =
does come through (and it may well stall or divert) there could be =
competition for space so we are in early along with Blackberry Ramble =
and several other more cautious boats.

It is no hardship as the town is due to celebrate Founders Days which =
is a four day festival beginning tomorrow with stalls, entertainment =
and activities aplenty.

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Shelburne is something of a honey trap for those crusing SW Nova =
Scotia. In the case of the other English boat in the harbour, so much =
so that they have made an offer on a house here. For us the appeal =
arises mainly from the fact that it is four miles up a wide estuary =
and therefore enjoys a climate more akin to warmer inland areas which =
suffer less from sea fog.

Most importantly for Elspeth and Peta is the fact that the water is =
warm - well the top four foot is. Fresh river water that flows into =
the estuary lies on top of the icy cold seawater underneath. As a =
consequence, when I swim I have to take care not to let my feet drop =
into the chilly depths. The contrast is quite abrupt.

On our way here we suffered our first significant mechanical =
breakdown. The heading sensor for the auto pilot seems to have stopped =
working leaving us without an electronic auto helm. Of course we still =
have the Aries wind vane for when we are sailing - though pretty much =
untried as yet - and also a tiller pilot which I have yet to rig which =
- when fitted - should operate the Aries for motoring.

At least we have plenty of hands for steering. Our auto pilot is not =
made anymore but I hope that we will find that a similar fluxgate =
compass will do.

This is the week when we are expecting to turn around and start =
heading back west and south for the winter. We gave up hopes of =
reaching Halifax some time ago realising to press on would be to miss =
much of what we were here to enjoy.

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Eventually the fog lifted on Friday and we set sail around Cape Sable =
which is said to be Nova Scotia’s Cape Horn! There are several =
strategies for getting around this Cape which is known for permanent =
fog and furious tidal rips.

My natural inclination was aim for least tidal activity i.e. slack =
water but this is a very narrow window and didn’t really fit with =
civilized hours. After some debated we took the advice of local =
fishermen which was to take the ebb tide all the way round. Thus we =
shot around at speeds of up to 10 knots over the ground (in only a SW =
4), We traveled the 40 miles to Cape Negro in a little over 7 hours =
which can’t be bad though in thick fog of course.

As we shot around the corner we noted the sea temperature falling to =
an all time low of 7.3 deg C. (It was nearly 13 deg C in Pubnico and =
15 in the Chesapeake back in April!). Condensation again formed on the =
inside of the hull and we all put on an extra layer.

When we sail above 4 knots, the propeller starts to turn with the =
force of the water. Typically, it was as the water temperature =
plummeted that, for the first time, we picked up something around the =
prop. I had visions of having to go over the side with the bread knife =
in order the free the prop when we had anchored. (We carry a wet suit =
for just this event in these cold waters but it is not much =
consolation). However, we ran the engine to come into the anchorage =
and this appeared to shift the problem.

The fog lifted as we came in at about 7.30pm last night to reveal a =
beautifully remote setting. Only then we realised how tiring was the =
constant bustle of Yarmouth and the fishing harbour at Pubnico. It was =
wonderful to be back in the natural environment.

Or at least this would have been the case on any other day of the =
year. We awoke this morning to the sound of a fishing boat, =
overflowing with children and adults and towing multiple skiffs. It =
was the day of the annual sheep shearing. Approximately 300 sheep make =
up the only inhabitants of the island. Once a year the extended family =
of the owner assemble to do a day’s work corralling the sheep. Sheep =
shearers are booked and local shepherds (of which there are very few) =
turn up with their Boarder Collies. (One of these being a fisherman we =
had got to know in Pubnico but we have become used to such =
coincidences in a small community - around here people often know who =
we are before we introduce ourselves).

We had planned to press on to Shelburn today but had the good sense to =
delay. Going ashore after lunch we spent the entire afternoon working =
on the shearing. I have never seen Elspeth work so hard, collecting =
lambs and holding them while there tails (and for the rams - other =
parts) are ringed, marking those that had been done, rescuing smaller =
lambs from being trampled in the overcrowded pen, collecting and =
holding lambs while they were wormed and much else. Peta too and I =
were fully occupied collecting and marking the sheep.

Tonight - three or four hours after they were released, we can still =
hear, lambs and ewes baaaing away on the beach struggling to become =
reunited after, what has been for them, something of a traumatic day.

It is remarkable how this cruising life presents so many opportunities =
which we just wouldn’t otherwise encounter. They are impossible to =
plan for - we never know what the next day will hold but at the =
moment, each day seems to be better than the last! Remind me of this =
when - as they are bound to do at some point - things get tough!

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It is happening again! That feeling of complete contentment not to say =
abject happiness. I remember the feeling from the last trip. This may =
not be a very sustainable way of life in the long term but I love it =
none the less.

It seems to have everything, firstly, it is rewarding. The sense of =
accomplishment in successfully sailing the boat from place to place is =
immense. Life is supremely uncomplicated. The clutter of consumer and =
political fuss rarely intrudes. One is to a great degree, master of =
ones own destiny. Then there is the business of being out of doors so =
much, which, working in an office at home, I miss so much. Beyond =
this, I am immersed in the environment that interests me most - =
thoroughly absorbing ever changing scenes of nautical activity. To be =
able to share all this with ones immediate family is an enormous =
privilege.

>From the above, you would never guess that we are still fogbound in =
Pubnico but we are. We are lying in a fishing harbour, rafted up to =
lobsterboats that won’t be going anywhere until the lobster season =
begins again in November.

It is difficult to walk past anyone here without stopping for a chat. =
The girls watched Edward (French pronunciation) and another man =
offload 8 tons of seaweed that they cut by hand in only 2 hours this =
morning. It goes for fertilizer and to make ice cream and jelly.

In the afternoon Edward’s father took us for a tour in his truck. =
First to the newly built windfarm - 17 huge wind generators ghostly =
whirling in the fog at a hight of 400 feet. Then on though the village =
to see his house and a few yards down the street, the house where he =
was born, then further along, the house where his late wife was born, =
the dock from where he used to fish (no refrigeration in those days) =
and from where Edward now fishes in season. Edward’s house, which his =
father built, the local church (catholic) and the cemetery.

Then later we bought lobster from a man on the quay - three smallish =
ones at less than =A31.50 each. It is off season and later we measured =
them using the lobster measure that Emery gave us in Yarmouth - at =
least one was undersize (though only just). These were ‘under the =
counter’ lobster. Later still, a fisherman turned up with some =
haddock. A gift cleaned and skinned especially for us - kedgeree for =
breakfast tomorrow.

By Friday, the wind should go round to the north west which should =
clear the fog and give us a good passage to Shelburne. In the meantime =
- we are very content to be fogbound in Pubnico

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We left Yarmouth with heavy hearts having made several good friends.

Emery and Karen in particular were extraordinarily generous running me =
to the government liquor store and taking us all on a tour of the =
harbour. They made the ideal guides, Emery having been involved with =
fishing locally since he was a boy was enormously interesting on the =
subject. He seemed to know everybody! Karen is a marine biologist so =
especially good on the sea life and the various environmental and food =
production issues. We were at least able return their hospitality in a =
small way by having them aboard for tea.

All off-license sales are managed through government liquor stores. I =
stocked up for our time in Canada but the price was more than twice =
that in the USA so we are having to guard our supply with real care.

We left Yarmouth in fair visibility but it deteriorated shortly before =
we reached the tricky bit of the route, Schooner Passage. We had one =
or two confusing moments before we managed to orientate ourselves and =
with only a scrap of mainsail and the engine ticking over we grouped =
our way through riding the back of a strengthening tide. Again, =
Elspeth deserves a mention in dispatches for keeping a sustained =
careful lookout and listening watch from the bows and Sue for steering =
an accurate course though a very disorienting scene.

The weather didn’t clear at all and we all agreed that sailing in the =
fog really is no fun. Anticipating the possibility of fog, I had =
plotted waypoints to within 100 yards of the harbour entrance and with =
the aid of the radar we could have made it in okay. However, a =
friendly fishing boat picked us up at the haven buoy 2 miles out and =
offered to guide us in. Then they arranged for us to berth in the =
fishing harbour - there being no yachting facilities of any kind here =
in Pubnico.

Most of the fishing boats in the area are named after the daughters of =
the owners, for instance tonight we are moored alongside Michelle and =
Lisa and across from Chelsea and Caylee and from Jasmine IV. Naturally =
enough when the skipper of Chelsea Lee who guided us in came across =
for a chat he wanted to know which of the girls was called Tabitha!

He had been out with two other crew for four days and they had a taken =
approximately 28,000 Ibs of haddock and cod. He seemed reasonable =
happy with that.

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We find that every two weeks or so, we need to stop moving and catch =
up with all the things we find difficult to do when on the move - like =
school, shopping and yes, more maintenance. These are often the best =
times as we have a chance to begin to really get to know a place and =
some of the people.

Yarmouth is becoming one of the memorable places on our trip. It helps =
that we have been tied up alongside. Mooring facilities are more =
primative in Nova Scotia - rough town quays mostly - and consequently =
a lot cheaper or free. Mooring at Yarmouth is free for the first night =
and then only 50 cents per foot per night for subsequent nights. Being =
alongside gives us the chance to be much more sociable, specifically =
in this case with wharf kids which Elspeth and Peta got to know and =
local fishermen that we have come to know. It is very rewarding.

Today the boys that hang around the wharf even bought their families =
down to meet their new friends from England. Though somewhat shocked =
by their colourful language, the girls have really benefited from =
finding some children to play with.

We have also been made very welcome by a local lobster man and his =
wife. It is the off-season for lobsters in Nova Scotia so he is =
concentrating on his trip-boat business. This is his second season =
with a 6m RIB from which he does harbour and nature tours. Sadly, the =
season is a bit slow at present so he spends a lot of time waiting for =
custom. His wife is a Government Marine Biologist and has taken an =
interest in the girls. We happened to mention that we planned to go =
swimming at the YMCA this afternoon. Carol called the ‘Y’ for us and =
found that they have started closing on Sundays so she arranged for us =
to go free of charge to the local hotel where we had exclusive use of =
the hotel pool, jacuzzie and sauna. A real luxury. They have also =
mentioned the possibility of a harbour trip for the girls in the RIB =
but we will have to wait and see.

I hesitate to say it, but we do find Canada much more relaxing than =
the USA. Perhaps it is because they have the queen’s head on the =
coinage or maybe it is just the more relaxed nature of the Canadians.

We have now moved out to a mooring in the harbour as we are expecting =
a strong south westerly which might be uncomfortable alongside.

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